In Calypso Bloom thinks of taking a bath in "Tara
street," just south of the Liffey. In the next chapter, as he
stands in the chemist's shop near the corner of Westland Row
and Lincoln Place, considerably southeast of Tara Street, he
thinks that he has "Time to get a bath round the corner.
Hammam. Turkish. Massage." After leaving the shop and moving
past Bantam Lyons as quickly as possible, "He walked
cheerfully toward the mosque of the baths," thinking that they
"Remind you of a mosque, redbaked bricks, the minarets." This
Oriental-fronted building was on the west side of Lincoln
Place, not far from where Bloom is standing. But Ithaca
will reveal that Bloom actually visits (in the space between Lotus
Eaters and Hades) a third public bath
establishment on Leinster Street.
The Tara Street establishment was the Dublin Corporation
Public Baths, Wash Houses, and Public Swimming Baths. Bloom
thinks in Calypso, "Chap in the paybox there got away
James Stephens, they say. O'Brien."
(Gifford notes that its superintendent was one J. P. O'Brien,
so the reference is not to William
Smith O'Brien or James Francis Xavier O'Brien, both of
whom had Fenian
connections.) Another for-profit bathhouse, this one in the
style of a "mosque," stood for some years on
the west side of Lincoln Place, but that business closed in
1900. Ithaca mentions that Bloom actually visits
another Turkish bath on Leinster Street, just past the Lincoln
Place one. The Leinster building did not have an
oriental-looking exterior. Working from memory, Joyce appears
to have conflated the two establishments.
"Hammam" is the Turkish and Arabic name for
public baths, often laid out in a series of rooms providing
different degrees of moisture and heat. The ones that were
constructed in Victorian Ireland were not derived directly
from Turkish practice, and the Turks held no monopoly on the
tradition: similar baths had been built in their part of the
world during the Byzantine empire, and they caught on
throughout the Islamic Near East and North Africa. On his
scholarly website, victorianturkishbath.org, Malcolm Shifrin
describes the Victorian version: "a type of bath in which the
bather sweats freely in a room heated by hot dry air (or in a
series of two or three such rooms maintained at progressively
higher temperatures), usually followed by a cold plunge, a
full body wash and massage, and a final period of relaxation
in a cooling-room." The dry heat of these establishments
distinguished them from actual Turkish baths, which are
typically steamy. Many of them also offered ordinary baths in
private rooms fitted with tubs, as reflected in the name of
the house that Bloom visits: the Leinster Turkish and Warm
Baths.
Bloom does not have time to get a full "Turkish" bath before
the funeral, but he thinks of the massage he could get if he
did: "Nicer if a nice girl did it. Also I think I. Yes
I. Do it in the bath. Curious longing I. Water to water.
Combine business with pleasure. Pity no time for massage. Feel
fresh then all the day. Funeral be rather glum." His impulse
to masturbate in the water implies a private bath, and this
interpretation coheres with the enameled tub that he imagines
several paragraphs later in Lotus Eaters: "Enjoy
a bath now: clean trough of water, cool enamel, the gentle
tepid stream. This is my body. / He foresaw his
pale body reclined in it at full, naked, in a womb of warmth,
oiled by scented melting soap, softly laved." Much later in
the day, in Nausicaa, it is revealed that Bloom has
in fact visited the baths before going to the cemetery, but
has not indulged his impulse to masturbate in the water: "Damned
glad I didn't do it in the bath this morning over her silly
I will punish you letter." Ithaca
provides the exact address (attached to the wrong façade): "the
oriental edifice of the Turkish and Warm Baths, 11 Leinster
street."
Nine separate Turkish bath establishments were built in
Dublin in the second half of the 19th century, following a
trend initiated in Cork in 1858. In 1904 several of these
businesses remained, hotly competing for customers. In
addition to the Leinster Street baths, there was one on Upper
Sackville Street and one near Stephen's Green. The furnishings
in these establishments were sumptuous and exotic: attendants
wore exotic near-eastern costumes; customers could fortify
themselves with Turkish coffee and smoke tobacco from
long-stemmed Turkish pipes while reclining on ottomans;
crescent shapes abounded; colored glass doors, windows,
skylights, and lamps created rich visual impressions both
during daylight hours and in the evening. A customer of the
Upper Sackville Street hammam quoted on Shifrin's site wrote,
"When the whole building is lighted up it has more the
appearance of a scene in one of Scheherazade's beautiful tales
than of a solid, bona fide brick and mortar business in the
centre of a great city."
Shifrin emphasizes the exotic appeal of these establishments:
"Today, television brings the sights and sounds of foreign
countries right into our living rooms, people travel easily to
the Middle East and beyond, and there is hardly a major city
in the British Isles which is without at least one
purpose-built mosque. We have become familiar with the
appearance of Islamic, or as it was often called, Saracenic
architecture in our midst. It is, therefore, difficult to
imagine how ordinary people must have reacted on their first
sight of this exotic addition to the often distinguished, but
very Western, buildings of Dublin. / A visitor from England
signing himself 'A moist man' wrote on his return, 'The
morning was raw and wet and cheerless when I left my hotel,
and, after a sloppy walk, found myself before a building of
oriental architecture, crowned with fantastic minarets, as
rich with Saracenic ornament as plaster of Paris and stucco
could make them.'"
Bloom's reflection on this exotic locale aligns with many
such moments in Joyce's writings: the boy's longing to visit
the bazaar in Araby; Bloom's fantasy of walking
through an Arabic souk in Calypso;
Stephen's fancies of Moorish
mathematics in Nestor; Stephen's dream of the
Baghdadi ruler Harun al-Rashid
in Proteus, followed by Bloom's appearance as that
figure in Circe; Stephen's interest in "The pillared Moorish hall"
in Scylla and Charybdis; Bloom's thoughts of Mohammed and his cat earlier
in Lotus Eaters; the many references to the Mohammedan
religion in Finnegans Wake; and so forth.